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One thing I'd add to Tom C's point: since this covers propane and natural gas too, not just CO, the outlet position does matter a little for those — propane tends to settle low and natural gas rises. A counter-height outlet near the stove is a reasonable middle ground, so I'd go with your plan. Just don't put it directly above the burners where steam and grease hit it.
I agree with Jessie Travels that the strap-over-shoulder, under-the-other-arm setup is what makes it work at a desk. One thing worth adding: several people here mention it slipping when they lean forward or reach across the desk, and that's a fit issue more than a product failure — snugging the strap a bit before you start tends to reduce it. If you're mostly upright and typing, I'd expect an occasional nudge back into place rather than it sliding off.
One thing the anchor advice glosses over: not all brick is the same. If it's a hollow clay brick, a plain plug can pull loose, and drilling into the mortar joint is weaker than the brick face itself. I'd aim for the solid part of the brick, start with a small bit, and back off if it crumbles — that's the part worth slowing down for, not the screen's weight.
I agree with HarrY and techguy22 that it likely won't loosen up, so I wouldn't count on that. One thing worth doing: since a stiff pin takes more intent, try a practice pull or two at home so your hand knows the motion before you ever need it under stress. If it feels too hard to manage one-handed, that's the real thing to watch, not whether it loosens.
Lily___, I'd read that as a placement issue rather than the unit not working — you said yourself it made a difference once it was closer to the bed. Mike38, since you're going ahead: aim the airflow toward where you actually sit or sleep rather than the middle of the room, and try running it before the afternoon sun peaks so it's not fighting the heat from scratch. That matches what Mark Carrell and Jake Paul described, and it's cheaper than expecting it to cool the whole room down.
I agree with Sant_five that cracking a window afterward is the practical move. One thing I'd add, though: a faint smell is one thing, but if it ever gets noticeably stronger or starts bothering your throat or eyes, I'd stop using it and ventilate well rather than just shrug it off — ozone isn't something I'd want to breathe in a closed room. Since Jess Carter asked, mine has stayed pretty consistent rather than building up, but I'd treat any jump in strength as a signal to check the unit.
Tessa, I'd treat it as normal rather than a dud. The practical trick several here already use is the one I'd recommend too: turn WiFi on just to frame the shot, then switch it off before you actually start recording, so the drain only happens during setup. If you need the app running the whole hike, expect shorter runtime and plan a charge or spare around that.
I'd push back a little on Parker S.'s framing that firm is simply the point and soft buyers picked wrong. From what folks here describe, it starts firmer than it settles, so the first night isn't the final feel — give it about a week before judging. That said, if you specifically want a sink-in plush pillow, this one stays on the supportive side even after breaking in, so it's more about matching your preference than the pillow being faulty.
Greg, I agree with Jake Paul that this is just the reality of a 2.7 lb unit, not a defect. One practical thing I'd add: fan mode feels noticeably stronger if you place the unit at desk or nightstand height and sit within a few feet of it, rather than across the room. So if you want it for background air while working, closer placement makes the gentle breeze more useful.
I'd lean toward Eddie___K and Tommy Burrel here: if it's already snug, you'll feel the extra layer, and that's a fit issue, not a sign the card doesn't work. A practical test I'd use: take one card out, slide the Guardality in its place, and see if the holder still closes comfortably before committing to all five. If it's borderline, the tighter fit may bug you more than the protection is worth in that particular holder.
I agree with HarperL that footing and a slower sweep make the biggest difference. One thing I'd add from how I'd approach it: on lumpy ground, keep the head just skimming the surface rather than letting it rest or dig in, since a wire head will kick off any high spot it catches. For the really uneven patches, I'd still switch back to a normal line head and save the VultrioX for the flatter runs and edges where it shines.
One thing I'd add, Ben: the global roaming isn't really a feature you're paying extra for on a per-use basis, it's just coverage baked into the SIM. So the real question for staying in one country is whether the Ryoko's data plan beats what your phone's own SIM already gives you. If it doesn't, then the battery and ad blocking are the only reasons left to carry it, and I'd weigh those honestly rather than treat the travel angle as the deciding factor.
Tom, one thing I'd add before you give up on the zones: the box shape matters more than people make out. If the branch swings outside the box at its widest, it'll still trigger, so drawing the zone a bit larger than the branch's full swing is worth a try before you move the camera. I'd try that first and only fall back to angle or sensitivity changes if it still leaks through.
Coincido con Chris Patrick en que el uso pesado es lo que marca la diferencia, pero añadiría algo que apenas se ha mencionado: con 10.000mAh la batería del banco da para poco más que un top-up parcial de un ultrabook, así que no esperes cargarlo de cero. Para mí la clave es usarlo como reserva para estirar la jornada en tareas ligeras, no como sustituto del cargador. Si tu portátil pide más de 30W en uso normal, lo notarás enseguida.
I agree with Lisa Hall that TV mode clearly drains faster, so plugging in is the sensible default. One thing I'd add: if you do play plugged in for long sessions, keep an eye on how warm the unit gets, since charging while running is when it's working hardest. For shorter sessions, unplugged is fine — it just depends on how long you plan to play.
I agree with Mike Harry that starting from a full charge makes the difference here. Several people in this thread got through the night on low, but a few saw it cut out around 6-7 hours, so I'd treat it as close to 8 rather than guaranteed. If you want a sure thing on the nightstand, plugging it in overnight is the low-effort fix, and save the battery for moving it around during the day.
I agree with Ryan__T and Emma Locke here — the real issue isn't that the cloth is defective, it's that polishing and a flat finish work against each other. A matte surface gets its look from a fine texture that scatters light, and rubbing it smooth creates a shiny patch that won't blend back. So I wouldn't call it useless on matte, just the wrong tool for a visible scuff there. If Paul847 still wants to try, a small hidden spot under the seat is the only sensible test, and I'd stop at the first sign of gloss.
I agree with Emma Reads and Ryan__T here — on darker paint the realistic outcome is toning light scuffs down, not erasing them, so don't expect the before/after photos on light cars to match. One thing worth adding: it's the type of mark that matters more than the color. Light surface scuffs and transfer marks are where it tends to help; anything you can feel with a fingernail is usually past what a cloth will fix. For your dark blue SUV, I'd try it on a small spot first and check it in direct sunlight before doing the whole area.
Dave, before you grab one, it's worth figuring out why your old drone is blurry. If it's soft even sitting still in good light, the Black Falcon's camera will be a real step up. But if the blur only shows up in flight or when there's a breeze, the steadiness of the drone matters more than the 4K label, and that's the part I'd actually check before buying.
I agree with T_Holloway's takeaway, but I'd separate two things: nobody here has shown the glucose number is accurate, so it shouldn't guide anything health-related, yet that's different from saying the watch is useless for the step and sleep tracking it also does. Since no one has run a side-by-side with a finger stick, I'd treat the glucose reading as unverified rather than either real or fake. If you're not diabetic, glancing at it is harmless; just don't let a number on your wrist replace the meter.
Sam West, I'd push back a little on "not the whole room" as a blanket verdict. It's a spot warmer by design, so if you want the chill off your bed or desk, aim it there and let it run a while rather than expecting even warmth wall to wall. For Jess's 120 sq ft bedroom that's realistically what it'll do — take the edge off where you sit or sleep, not replace the central heat.
I agree with Emma Locke and Sophi86 that the included adapter is what makes old mounts work, but I'd test the specific mount you plan to use before relying on it. A quick dry fit at home tells you more than assuming every old GoPro accessory will click in the same way.
I agree with Tom Call that it's not a gimmick, just basic. One practical thing worth knowing: since you're navigating with the remote, games that need quick or precise input get old fast, so stick to slow puzzle or card stuff rather than anything action-y. If you're buying it for streaming anyway, it's a fine bonus, but I wouldn't plan around it.
I'd back up what Tom C and JSmith are getting at: a quieter bark may simply not be loud enough at the device's position to trigger it, so it's worth trying it closer to where your dog actually barks before deciding the unit is faulty. That said, I wouldn't read LauTop's "misses plenty" as proof the thing doesn't work at all — for interrupting the main loud barking it's meant for, it can still do the job. If the soft barks are the ones you specifically need caught, that's a real gap in your case, not necessarily a broken device.
Tina, one thing worth adding: the noise itself isn't a defect, but I wouldn't make a habit of letting it run dry just to avoid topping it off. The pump pulling air is harder on it than running with water, so I'd refill when the sound starts rather than wait until it's completely empty. And to your worry about constant refills, most people here get through a workday on one fill, so it shouldn't mean babysitting it.
Tom911, since you're specifically trying to stop forgetting to pull out your transit card, the practical bit is placement: the Guardality card only shields what's right next to it, so if you keep your transit card in a separate slot away from it, you can still tap without digging it out. I'd treat it as a blocker for the cards you never want read, not something to lay across your whole wallet.
Before you settle on living with it, the center wear plus a hum that starts at a set speed is worth a quick look rather than just noise tolerance. Worn centers often mean overinflation or that the tires are simply shot, and a hum can also come from uneven wear or a developing separation, so I wouldn't assume it's harmless just because it's only annoying right now. If it were mine, I'd get the rears checked soon and keep it off the highway until then, especially since you don't know the history of a cheap beater.
One thing that helped me: keep added ROMs in the same folder structure the stick already uses, because saves live in emulator-specific folders tied to that path. If you drop a game somewhere else, the old save won't show up even if the ROM loads. So pick one emulator per game and don't move the files after you start saving.
Mine usually latches back on within a minute or two of leaving a dead spot, though on trains it sometimes takes longer because it keeps hunting between towers. What helped me was leaving it in auto network selection rather than locking a carrier, since it reconnects faster when coverage changes. If you're working on the move, I'd just expect the odd short gap rather than a long wait.