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Tom, since a few people here (Old Dave, Oliver Brooks) land around 8–10 feet with a clear line of sight, I'd treat it as a range/aiming limitation rather than a broken unit. One thing worth trying: aim slightly above or below the receiver instead of dead-on, since Devvit and Tina Bell both noticed angles matter more than distance. If it still only works from a couple of feet away, that's when I'd suspect the remote itself rather than the unit.
One thing worth adding, Greg: how long the scent actually lasts depends a lot on where you put it. Marcus mentioned his faded faster in summer heat, and I'd expect the same in a warm garage or near a heat source — so a pouch in a cool pantry will likely hold up longer than one in a hot shed. And since you're leaning toward sticking with the spray, that's reasonable; the pouch is more of a background preventive thing than something to reach for when you're already seeing activity.
I agree with L_Parker that a click at shutdown is likely just the switch inside cutting power, and I'd add that S4r4 Hernández's unit being silent doesn't necessarily mean the clicking ones are faulty — small differences between units or even how firmly it's mounted can change how noticeable it is. What I'd watch for is a change in behavior: if the click gets louder, turns into a rattle or buzz, or the unit starts clicking at random times while running, that's worth looking into. A single click right when the timer ends, with everything working normally afterward, is the kind of thing I'd just note and move on from.
I'd add one thing to Sant_five's point: a disappointing result on a very weak line doesn't mean it fails on ordinary low pressure. If your flow is barely trickling, no nozzle will feel impressive; but on a normal-but-weak spigot it's still a step up from a plain nozzle, just slower on dried mud. Jenny, I'd try it on a small patch first and get closer to the surface rather than expecting a jet.
Riley, I'd separate your experience from a general verdict. You said yourself your setup might be too far gone, and that's a real possibility — but it doesn't mean the box does nothing for anyone with old wiring. Some here with cloth or knob-and-tube wiring did notice steadier lights, others noticed nothing, so it seems to depend on the individual house rather than the age of the wiring itself. Chris, if your main complaint is flickering when big appliances kick on, it's worth a try; if it's loose outlets or tripping breakers, that's a wiring repair issue and no plug-in device will fix it.
Parker, since framing is all you need, I'd say go ahead and try it once before the trip. One practical thing I'd do: connect the app while the camera is still dry and above water, get your angle set, then start recording and close the app so it's not draining the battery or fighting the Wi-Fi while you're in the water. That matches what Olivia_park and others describe, and it keeps the lag from mattering at all.
Ben, I'd try it once on a cold floor with the room a bit cooler, like Jess mentioned, just to confirm yours behaves the same as everyone else's before you write it off. I wouldn't count on the heat doing much on its own, but as a bit of warmth during the traction session it's fine for what it is.
Max Connor's point about it only cooling right next to it is worth taking seriously, but I'd read that as a placement issue rather than proof these don't work. In a 10×10 room, where you point the unit and how well the exhaust is sealed off make a real difference to whether the cool air spreads or just sits in one spot. I'd aim it across the room rather than at yourself, and keep it off the floor so it isn't fighting the hot air pooling there. For taking the edge off, that setup is usually enough.
Rob, one thing I'd add before you write off the vacuum: with the crevice nozzle, hold the keycap down or work gently, since strong suction on a mechanical board can pull a loose cap up. I agree with Jenna Lee that shaking crumbs out first and then using the crevice nozzle covers most of it, so compressed air is really only for the stubborn bits. That said, if deep cleaning between switches is your main goal, keeping the compressed air makes sense.
I agree with Mark Carrell that it's a light load compared to a window unit, and the thread's covered the bill side well. One practical thing I'd add: if you're leaving it on all day, running it on a lower fan speed and switching to plain air circulation when the cooling isn't needed keeps the draw down and still moves air. Just remember the water tank is the real limit on a long day, not the electricity.
One small thing I'd add, RonWeek: since it's memory foam, I'd avoid piling heavy stuff on top of it in the closet. The wings squish down fine, but constant weight could flatten the shape over time. Otherwise, yeah, it's not the hassle it looks like.
I agree with Mike in TX that the steam is loosening dirt rather than lifting it visibly, so a wipe or vacuum afterward matters more than extra passes. One thing I'd add: on upholstery I'd do a light pass, give it a few minutes to work, then blot or vacuum rather than keep steaming the same spot, since soaking the fabric too much just makes it slower to dry. Devon, try judging it once the sofa is fully dry rather than while it's still damp.
I'd add one nuance to what Mike Runner and Ryan__T said: the issue is really the water-assisted cooling mode, not the unit itself. In a sticky room I'd run it without water and aim the airflow right at me near a window or door so it pulls in fresher air rather than just recirculating the muggy stuff. So it's not that the AiraBreeze fails in humidity, it's that the cooling part has little to work with there while the fan part still helps.
Tommy and Owen both hit the same wall past roughly six feet, and I don't think that means the camera is useless — it just means placement and distance matter more than people expect. If your couch is far from where you'd mount it, I'd start by putting it closer or angling it so the seating area sits in the middle of the frame rather than the edge, since that's where it gets soft. For a simple dog-on-couch check, that's usually enough.
Glad you're going to try it, Tom. One practical thing I'd keep in mind: the bigger opening helps most on thin backpack straps and standard belt loops, but on thick webbing or padded straps it'll still be snug, so don't expect it to swallow everything. And since it's a plastic clip, I'd treat it as something to hang the speaker from and leave there rather than something to yank around.
Jason, I'd agree with Luis_A91 and Sophi86 that soft water doesn't mean chlorine-free, so the filter can still do something even if limescale isn't your issue. Tommy Burrel's take that it's mostly for hard water is fair for the softening side, but I wouldn't read it as the filter doing nothing at all. Since you're already using it, judging by whether the chlorine smell or any dryness changes by the time the filter runs out seems like a sensible way to decide.
I agree with Jackson_H that an accidental pull in a bag is the thing most likely to eat the battery, and that's worth planning for rather than assuming it'll just sit dormant for years. My take: treat the multi-year figures as a best case for a device that's never triggered, and do a quick pull-test every few months so you're not discovering a dead battery when you actually need it. Luna's experience of swapping around 18 months is a good reminder that it varies, so I wouldn't count on a fixed number.
I agree with Chris Writes that placement near a wall or sheltered spot makes a real difference, and I'd add that Tina M's experience sounds like the wind was strong enough to push the bugs past the unit rather than the trap failing outright. On a mildly breezy patio it can still pull in smaller flies and gnats, but once leaves are rustling it's more of a supplement than a solution. I'd try it on a calm evening first to see your baseline, then judge whether a light breeze still gives you enough.
I agree with Julia Writes that the glass itself matters more than people admit. Ryan__T's "hit or miss" makes sense if the surface is textured or uneven, since the tip can't keep consistent contact there, but on smooth flat glass it's been fine in the replies here. Lisa, testing on a cheap smooth glass first is a smart move, and I'd avoid anything with a raised pattern or curve until you've got a feel for it.
Tom W98, I think you've landed in the right place. One practical thing I'd add: the pause is less of an issue than background noise on a work call, so if you take these from a shared office or a café, expect the translation to stumble more than it would at your desk. For short check-ins in a quiet spot, they should do what you need.
I agree with Mike Reynolds that a very soft mattress can swallow the device and take away the traction, but I wouldn't call it useless everywhere. If your mattress is plush, use it on the floor when you want the actual stretch, and save the bed for the heat and vibration if that's all you're after. A medium-firm mattress, like Emma Reads mentioned, is a different story and may be fine. So it's less about floor vs. bed and more about how much the surface gives under your back.
I agree with Lopeza that MagSafe is the easier option here — with a card this thin, the main thing that trips people up isn't the pad being cheap, it's getting the coil lined up. On a flat Qi pad I'd just nudge it around until it starts charging and mark that spot. Your Anker and MagSafe charger should both do the job, so I wouldn't buy another one.
Since Jess and Eddie raised wind and battery, those are the two things I'd weigh most for travel. From what's been described here, the Black Falcon handles a light breeze but gets shaky in anything stronger, so I'd plan shots for calmer mornings and keep clips short rather than expecting long stable flights. If clean footage in wind matters more than pack size, that's the one place the Mini 2 earns its price.
Kuzela, one practical thing worth keeping in mind since you're sticking with the card: it blocks by sitting alongside your cards, so it works best when it's in the same slot or right next to the contactless ones. The old sleeve wrapped each card individually, which is a bit more foolproof if a card ever ends up in a different pocket. For a single wallet that stays together, I'd say the card is the easier choice and the difference in blocking is unlikely to matter in daily use.
Since you've decided to just let it run, one small thing I'd add: in a closed office the air can start feeling muggy after a few hours of misting, so I'd keep the mist on intermittent rather than continuous and crack a window if you can. Also worth emptying the leftover water at the end of the day rather than letting it sit overnight — standing water in a warm tank is what tends to get smelly.
I agree with Daniele Rossi that crowded buses and trains are where this actually matters, more than open city walking. For a trip, I'd clip it to a tight loop on the shoulder strap like Owen21 does, and keep it inside a pocket during packed transit so a stranger's bag or coat can't catch the pin. That keeps it quick to grab without risking a false alarm in a crowd.
Kuzela's point about it just taking longer lines up with what I'd expect, but I wouldn't fully dismiss northshore's stall either. The difference is likely the specific machine rather than fine grind being fine or broken across the board, so if you get one and your usual V60 grind stalls, going a step coarser is the practical fix rather than giving up on it.
I did try a loose comparison once: I took a fingerstick reading and then checked the watch within a few minutes, and the numbers didn't match closely enough for me to rely on it. That said, I still use mine for steps, heart rate trends and sleep, and the week of battery has held up for me. If glucose numbers actually matter for your health, I'd keep using a real meter and treat the watch feature as a rough extra at best, not something to base decisions on.
I use mine mostly for the car and patio, and it's fine for the usual dust, mud and light grime, but the wheels are where it falls short for me too — brake dust and caked stuff still need a brush and some effort. For your situation I'd treat it as a quick-tidy tool and pre-soak the patio before spraying; if the grime is genuinely stubborn, plan on scrubbing or borrowing a proper machine.